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Author Topic: Modding a Canon 350D  (Read 902 times)

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Offline 12dstring

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Modding a Canon 350D
« on: 22:52:47, 23 June, 2007 »
Just wanted to say that I've just finished writing up my guide to replacing the IR filter of a Canon 350D/ Rebel XT, having successfully modded mine a few days ago.

http://www.12dstring.me.uk/350dmod.htm

Hopefully if anyones plans to mod theirs, it might be useful.

Can't wait to start imaging some H-alpha now... but it's all behind these typical British clouds :(

Dave
Telescopes: Meade LXD55 SN10, Skywatcher Explorer-150, Skywatcher ED80 on HEQ5 Pro EQMOD
Cameras: Multiple SPC900NCs - SC1.5, SC4, 618.. + Canon 350D (ACF modded and peltier cooled)
http://www.12dstring.me.uk/astro

Offline SteveL

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Re: Modding a Canon 350D
« Reply #1 on: 22:56:23, 23 June, 2007 »
Bookmarked! Looking forwad to your results and comments when the clouds go away
http://www.steves-astro.com/
EQ6Pro/SW190mm MakNewt/Borg77@4.3/ED80Pro, QHY8, M25C, LodeStar, DSI, and 100% cloud cover :(

Offline Hoohoo

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Re: Modding a Canon 350D
« Reply #2 on: 23:24:55, 23 June, 2007 »
A very good guide too modding, i want to mod mine too but i`m not sure how it would work out with the daytime pictures. In my case it would not be replacing but removal...

Kim
Kim

Skywatcher 190MN
Skywatcher HEQ5 Pro
Canon EOS350 Cold Finger modded and removed IR filter
QHY5 Finder Guider

Offline 12dstring

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Re: Modding a Canon 350D
« Reply #3 on: 23:32:02, 23 June, 2007 »
Thanks Kim and Steve,

Two things with removal:
-If you didn't replace it with clear glass or another filter, the autofocus mechanism will not work anymore because it takes into account the refraction of light by the filter.
-Also, you'll need to use an IR/UV blocking filter screwed into the lens to return the colour balance to normal for daylight photography (this applies to replacement using clear glass too). With the Baader filter, it still blocks the IR so the automatic white balance on the camera will compensate for the slightly increased red hue.
Telescopes: Meade LXD55 SN10, Skywatcher Explorer-150, Skywatcher ED80 on HEQ5 Pro EQMOD
Cameras: Multiple SPC900NCs - SC1.5, SC4, 618.. + Canon 350D (ACF modded and peltier cooled)
http://www.12dstring.me.uk/astro

Offline vincecom

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Re: Modding a Canon 350D
« Reply #4 on: 00:22:45, 24 June, 2007 »
Thanks for putting that together, it's just what I was looking for  :big_clap:

Vincent  :)

Offline starf

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Re: Modding a Canon 350D
« Reply #5 on: 09:26:00, 24 June, 2007 »
thanks for taking the time and effort to write these up.
mike.

Offline 12dstring

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Re: Modding a Canon 350D
« Reply #6 on: 09:38:15, 24 June, 2007 »
It's always a pleasure to give something back :)

I've just realise I didn't upload the transmission curves of the filters, it was the first picture as well  :lol:
That's up there now, so you can really see the huge difference it makes.
I'll write up a results page when I can, but it's forecast rain for the next 5 days...  :-\

Dave
Telescopes: Meade LXD55 SN10, Skywatcher Explorer-150, Skywatcher ED80 on HEQ5 Pro EQMOD
Cameras: Multiple SPC900NCs - SC1.5, SC4, 618.. + Canon 350D (ACF modded and peltier cooled)
http://www.12dstring.me.uk/astro

Offline LawrieSmith

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Re: Modding a Canon 350D
« Reply #7 on: 15:22:44, 24 June, 2007 »
Excellent write-up!  Well worth a thorough study and then the courage to do the same to mine!
Thanks - a really worthwhile post.
LawrieSmith

Offline dciobota

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Re: Modding a Canon 350D
« Reply #8 on: 17:33:04, 24 June, 2007 »
  Awesome writeup Dave, better than any tech manual I've ever seen.  :cool:

PLEASE REMOVE ME

Offline jcm

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Re: Modding a Canon 350D
« Reply #9 on: 18:16:12, 24 June, 2007 »
Good job done - I would have had shaking hands all the time.
I considered doing the filter change myself. Then I thought I would let Andy ( Astronomiser) take the risk of damaging the camera.  :D

It will be interesting to see how we both get on ( subject to cloud/rain) and compare results.

John
GSO 204mm RC
EQ8 on homemade Pier.
ATik 460EX, Canon 1100d (modded)
Flea3 gigE camera

Offline coxellis

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Re: Modding a Canon 350D
« Reply #10 on: 10:09:26, 02 July, 2007 »
Results would be pretty much the same John, I use the Baader filter.  The method I use involves removing the front cover as well, only another 3 screws - this avoids putting a hole through the plastic to reach one of the screws, but you do have to lever the cover over the tripod bush.  See http://www.lifepixel.com/ir-tutorials/canon-rebel-xt-300d-digital-infrared-conversion-instructions.htm which is failry similar to what I do.

A couple of notes:

1, Make sure you check the sensor and filter inner surfaces before re-assembly, finding when you take your first shot that a hair or spot of dust has got in there can be soul destroying and it happens to all of us eventually - out of over 150 cameras, I've had to disassemble, clean and re-assemble about 6 or 7. Use a good quality clean magnifier for this.

2, Steer well clear of the flash capacitor or drain it - this isn't too much of a problem with a 350 as it's well out o the way, but if you are going to adapt these instructions to a different camera, be aware of the flash capacitor it can give you a nasty jolt - I once 'located' the capacitor on a Nikon D-70 whilst taking the front cover off...  Took a couple of coffees, a cigarette and a wee blast of my home defibrillator before I was happy to continue :lol:

3, If you are following a guide like Dave's excellent one, I would recommend that you lay out all the parts/ screws you remove in order and in the case of screws, in the orientation that they came out - that way you can be sure of putting the right screws back in the right places - some of the differences between the screws used is subtle.

4, When disconnecting ribbons, look carefully at how the latch works - some of the plastic latches are very flimsy and it would be easy to break them.  The connectors are very difficult to replace - undo/ fasten the flimsy ones with a very even pressure across the latch.

5, When replacing the ribbons, make sure it is fully inserted into the connector. Where a ribbon has guiding holes use a cocktail stick and gently push the ribbon as far in as it will go.  Make sure it is not at even the slightest angle and maintain the inwards pressure whilst closing the latch.  The two smallest ribbons in the top left can disappear into the top of the case - a wee loop of insulation tape on these before disconnecting them can be very useful for retrieving them later.

6, Remove the ribbons marked 7 and 3 first then ease the top of the camera case up quarter of an inch - this gives better access to remove the other ribbons and when putting it back together and reconnecting the ribbons the extra bit of space makes the job a lot easier.

7, Regardless of whether or not you move the top of the case or not - avoid pressing any of the buttons.

Oh - as with all others writing anything about dSLR mods, you follow my tips at your own risk.

Andy
Obs: EQ6 SkyScan; Field: EQ5 SynScan
Scopes: MN76 : Equinox 80
Cams: ART285 : BWSC1 : 1000D : 450D

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